The late 1970s saw the emergence of skinhead culture becoming increasingly politicized, a shift noted by Anaïs Voy-Gillis, a researcher at the Institut Français de Géopolitique. Central to the skinhead attire are Fred Perry polo shirts, favored for their ability to limit perspiration. Typically worn buttoned up and close-fitting, these shirts are paired with bombers, Dr. Martens boots, and shaved heads, creating a distinctly military look.
Ambiguous and Controversial Fashion
Other brands, such as Ben Sherman and Lonsdale, have similarly been caught in the crossfire of this radical politicization. Lonsdale, for instance, became controversial due to the letters “nsda” appearing in its name, a reference to the Nationalsozialistische Deutsche Arbeiterpartei, the Nazi Party.
In France, the symbolic nature of the polo shirt is particularly complex. Both fascist (“fafs”) and antifascist (“antifas”) groups have adopted it, adding layers of ambiguity. The tragic death of libertarian activist Clément Méric in 2013, after a confrontation with far-right extremists at a private sale featuring Fred Perry products, highlighted the violent political undertones associated with this apparel. As political scientist Fiammetta Venner observed, “In France, it is more of a marker than a uniform: a commercial brand is used by activists who believe violence is a good way to engage in politics.”
The Absurdity of Politicization
The United States has also seen the Fred Perry polo shirt become a political symbol. Since 2016, the Proud Boys, a far-right group led by Vice co-founder Gavin McInnes, have adopted the black and yellow version of the polo as their uniform. In response, the president of Fred Perry publicly distanced the brand from these controversial clients.
The absurdity of this politicization extends beyond polo shirts. Andrew Anglin, associated with the white supremacist Hammerskins, declared New Balance sneakers the “official shoes of white people” earlier this year, adding to the list of everyday items co-opted by extremist groups.
A Tale of Two Charlottesville
In August 2017, during a protest in Charlottesville, Virginia, against the removal of a Confederate statue, white supremacists clashed with progressive activists. The rally was marked by a sea of white polo shirts and khaki pants, a deliberate effort to present a “clean-cut” image. Neonazi troll Andrew Anglin instructed his followers to look presentable, stressing the importance of appearance in gaining public attention.
Voy-Gillis interprets this as part of a broader trend among far-right groups to adopt a polished appearance. “Besides affirming group belonging, there is a cult of sport and self-care. The style is neat, primarily for defense and combat, but also for the image they believe it projects,” she explains.
The Evolution of a Garment
The origins of the polo shirt date back to the late 19th century in British sports. Introduced by the Maharajah of Jodhpur for polo players, it was neither a T-shirt nor a shirt. Tennis champion Fred Perry popularized the polo shirt in the UK, making it a working-class favorite due to his own background and success at Wimbledon.
In the 1970s, Ralph Lauren further popularized the polo shirt in the United States, associating it with the “American way of life” of East Coast WASP students. French brand Vicomte A also embraced the polo shirt, highlighting its versatility in modern fashion.
From Bourgeois to Rebel
In the 1960s, the polo shirt became a symbol of cultural rebellion in the UK, adopted by the mod subculture before transitioning to the skinhead movement in the 1970s. Voy-Gillis notes, “The politization of skinhead movements began in the late 1970s. Fred Perry polos, worn buttoned up and close to the body, became part of their military-style attire.”
Other brands like Ben Sherman and Lonsdale also became entwined in this radical shift. In France, the polo shirt’s symbolic ambiguity persisted, claimed by both fascists and antifascists.
The ongoing politicization of fashion items like the polo shirt underscores the complex interplay between style and ideology. As brands grapple with these associations, the broader implications for society and culture continue to unfold.
Written by Imane Moumen
